OVERHAULING
A BENDIX YELLOW BAND AND BENDIX BLUE BAND TWO-SPEED REAR HUB WITH
COASTER BRAKE
The following step-by-step illustrated
instruction cover disassembling, assembling, and adjusting the
Bendix Yellow Band and Bendix Blue Band two-speed rear hub with
coaster brake. The hubs are identified by the word BENDIX stamped
on the brake arm and a series of yellow or blue bands circling
the center of the hub.
These two hubs are basically alike with
many of the parts being interchangeable. Differences between the
hubs, including interchangeable parts, are illustrated in a
detailed exploded drawing following the Cleaning and Inspecting
portion of this section, and are pointed out in the text.
The
following procedures apply basically to the Bcndix Blue Band hub.
Deviations from this hub that might cause problems during
assembly, including specific parts that are not interchangeable,
are called to your attention in the individual steps.

DISASSEMBLING
(1) Clamp the complete hub assembly in a vise,
with the jaws gripping the axle on the sprocket side, as shown.
CAUTION: Use soft vise jaws to protect the axle threads. Hold the
brake arm and remove the locknut by turning it in a
counterclockwise direction.
(2) Lift off the brake arm, and then the dust
cap.
(3) Remove the brake-arm side expander, and
then the ball bearing retainer assembly. Hold the retainer
assembly with your fingers, push on the square head of the
expander with your thumbs, and the retainer assembly will slide
off the expander.
(4) Grasp the hub shell and lift it straight
up and off the axle.
(5) Reach into the hub shell with your
forefinger, lift the expander and clutch assembly slightly, and
remove the four brake shoes as they rise.
(6) Remove the complete expander and clutch
assembly.
(7) Remove the ball bearing retainer assembly
from the drive screw.
(8) Unsnap and remove the indexing spring from
the drive screw, using a screwdriver, as shown.
(9) Remove the low-speed and high-speed drive
screw assemblies, and then the ball bearing retainer assembly.
(10) Lift the high-speed drive screw and catch
the loose ball bearings as the drive screw begins to rise.
NOTE: On the Bendix Blue Band hub, the sprocket is welded to
the low-speed drive screw. On the Bendix Yellow Band hub, the
drive screw is welded to the high-speed drive screw. The
planetary gears can be removed by driving the gear pin out with a
drift punch and hammer from the side opposite the splined shaft
of the low-speed drive screw.
CAUTION: The
gear pins are tapered and can be driven out in only one
direction. These gears are usually not removed because the
low-speed drive screw is sold as a complete unit with the gears
installed.
(11) Turn the axle end for end in the vise
with the jaws gripping the center unthreaded portion. Remove the
dust-cap lock ring by prying it up with a screw- driver. Lift off
the dust cap.
(12) Place a cone locknut tool over the Axle
and engage the ears of the tool with the slots in the locknut.
(13) Hold the adjusting-cone sun gear assembly
with one wrench and loosen the locknut with another wrench on the
cone tool. Remove the locknut, and then the sun gear assembly.
(14) Separate the high-speed drive clutch
assembly from the low-speed drive clutch retarder assembly by
pulling them apart. The high-speed clutch will release from the
high-speed coupling.
(15) Snap the coupling off the high-speed
clutch assembly with a screwdriver.
(16) Remove the high-speed retarder spring by
first working it up with a narrow-bladed screwdriver and then
removing the spring with a pair of needle- nosed pliers.
(17) Insert a narrow-bladed screwdriver under
the low-speed retarder spring, pry it up and grasp it with a pair
of needle-nosed pliers, and then remove the spring from the
low-speed drive clutch.
(18) Separate the low-speed drive clutch and
drive- side expander.
CLEANING AND INSPECTING
Clean all parts in solvent and blow dry with
compressed air, or wipe them dry with a lintless cloth. Keep
cleaned parts on paper towels to avoid contamination. Cover them
with a clean towel to keep grit from entering the internal parts
and bearings. A tiny piece of grit can do a tremendous amount of
damage if allowed to work on a part over an extended period of
time or while the wheel is turning at high speed.
Carefully inspect the loose ball bearings for
signs of excessive wear (dull spots, pits, or cracks) and replace
the complete set if any of them are damaged. Replacing the
complete set will ensure distribution of the bearing load equally
on all the ball bearings.
Inspect the two ball bearing retainer
assemblies. If any of the ball bearings come out of the retainer,
are pitted (pencil-point dots), show signs of excessive wear
(dull spots), or are cracked, the bearing and retainer assembly
must be replaced. Check the retainers for cracks or visible signs
of damage.
Inspect the bearing surface of the adjusting
cone for scores (scratchlike marks), pits, and stripped threads.
Inspect the bearing cups of the hub for scores, pits, or
excessive wear. Check the flanges of the hub shell for cracks,
and to be sure they are not loose.
Check the dust caps to be sure they are not
bent, crimped, or distorted, which could have happened during
disassembly.
Check the axle and locknuts for signs of
damage or stripped threads. Roll the axle slowly across a smooth
flat surface and check both ends for being out-of-round or watch
the center of the axle to see if it rises off the surface. Either
of these indications means the axle is bent and must be replaced.
Inspect the bearing surface of the brake-arm
side expander for scores, pits, or other damage. Check for
stripped threads.
Check the indexing slots of the drive-side
expander for wear or rounded edges.
Inspect the low-speed drive clutch for chipped
and worn threads or worn dentils on the outer surfaces.
Inspect the brake shoes for a worn or glazed
condition. Check the tapered surface for burrs.
Inspect the high-speed drive clutch for
chipped or worn threads.
Inspect the high-speed coupling for damaged
windows and hooks.
Inspect the planetary gears and adjusting-cone
sun gear for worn or damaged gear teeth.
If you are working on a Bendix Yellow Band
hub, inspect the weld between the sprocket and the high-speed
drive-screw portion for cracks or signs of fatigue. If you are
working on a Bendix Blue Band hub, inspect the weld between the
sprocket and low-speed drive-screw portion.
Check the brake arm to be sure it is not bent
or damaged.
ASSEMBLING
(19) Thread the adjusting-cone sun gear
assembly onto either end of the axle until the outside edge is
7/8 inch from the end of the axle, as shown.
(20) Thread the locknut onto the axle, with
the slots facing up. Place a cone locknut tool over the axle and
engage the ears of the tool with the slots in the locknut.
(21) Hold the adjusting-cone sun gear assembly
with a wrench and tighten the locknut with another wrench on the
tool. Remove the tool.
(22) Set the drive-side expander over the
low-speed drive clutch, with the slots in the expander facing up.
(23) Slide a narrow-bladed screwdriver between
the spiral of the low-speed retarder spring at the lower end.
Place the lower end of the retarder spring into the machined
recess of the low-speed drive clutch, with the upper end of the
spring winding downward in a clockwise spiral and the lower end
catching in the drive-side expander slot. Rotate the screwdriver
in a counterclockwise direction (at the same time pushing down on
the screwdriver blade) to roll the low-speed retarder spring
completely into the machined recess.
CAUTION: Always install new retarder springs when overhauling
this type of hub to ensure satisfactory service.
Install the high-speed retarder spring in the
recess of the high-speed drive clutch in a similar manner,
rotating the screwdriver in a counterclockwise direction
(24) Coat the inside and outside surfaces of
the high-speed drive clutch with multipurpose lubricant. Install
the high-speed coupling on the high-speed drive clutch, with the
lower window indexing with the lower end of the high-speed
retarder spring. Stretch the upper window of the coupling over
the other end of the high-speed retarder spring hook.
CAUTION:
The high-speed coupling can be installed properly in only one way
to allow the ears of the high-speed retarder spring to index
properly in the windows of the coupling.
(25) Join the high-speed and low-speed drive
clutch assemblies by sliding one leg of the high-speed coupling
into either slot of the low-speed drive clutch assembly with the
hook on the bottom of the leg catching the low-speed drive
clutch. Push the high-speed drive clutch down with the other leg
of the coupling, indexing with the high-speed clutch slot and the
hook catching the high-speed drive clutch.
(26) Apply a generous coating of multipurpose
lubricant around the shaft of the low-speed drive screw, on top
of the planetary pinion, as shown.
CAUTION:
The low-speed drive screw of the Bendix Blue Band hub is not
interchangeable with the drive screw of the Yellow Band hub.
Place the loose ball bearings around the shaft
and imbed them in the lubricant.
NOTE: After all the ball bearings are in
place, there should be approximately one ball bearing clearance
left.
(27) Coat the inside surface of the high-speed
drive screw with multipurpose lubricant.
CAUTION: The
high-speed drive screw of the Bendix Blue Band hub is not
interchangeable with the drive screw of the Bendix Yellow Band
hub. Slide the high-speed drive screw onto the shaft of the
low-speed drive screw and over the loose ball bearings.
Rotate the high-speed drive screw in a
clockwise direction to set it down in place and to index the
teeth of the planetary gears with the internal teeth of the ring
gear.
(28) Cover the inside surface of the indexing
spring with premium-quality cycle oil. Spread the ends of the
indexing spring and install it under the shoulder of the
high-speed drive screw. Coat the outside surface with cycle oil.
CAUTION:
Always install a new indexing spring when overhauling this hub to
ensure proper service after assembly.
(29) Apply a thin coating of premium-quality
cycle oil to the inside surface of the hub shell.
CAUTION:
The hub shell of the Bendix Blue Band hub is not interchangeable
with the shell of the Bendix Yellow Band hub.
Insert the low-speed and high-speed drive
clutch assemblies into the tapered end of the shell, with the
high-speed drive clutch going in first, as shown.
(30) Cover the inside surfaces of the four
brake shoes with multipurpose lubricant. Apply a very thin
coating of lubricant to the outside surfaces of the shoes. Insert
the brake shoes into the hub between the ears of the drive-side
expander. The brake shoes will then be in pairs on either side of
the two expander ears, as shown.
(31) Pack one of the large sets of ball
bearing assemblies with multipurpose lubricant. Work the
lubricant throughout the bearings and retainer with your fingers.
Place the lubricated bearing assembly onto the brake-arm side
expander, with the flat side facing up and then press it into
place using the brake-arm-side dust cap. Remove the dust cap.
Insert the brake-arm side expander into the hub shell. Hold the
expander in place, and then turn the hub shell end for end on the
bench.
(32) Apply a coating of multipurpose lubricant
to the bearing race, as shown.
(33) Pack one of the large sets of ball
bearing assemblies with a generous amount of multipurpose
lubricant. Work the lubricant throughout the bearings and
retainer. Place the lubricated bearing assembly into the hub
shell, with the flat side of the retainer facing up.
(34) Hold the brake-arm side expander in place
with one hand and with the other hand insert the assembled drive
screws into the opposite end of the hub. Rotate the sprocket in a
clockwise direction until the assembly is fully seated in the hub
shell.
(35) Apply a generous amount of multipurpose
lubricant to the bearing race of the drive assembly. Pack the
other ball bearing retainer assembly with multi-purpose
lubricant, and then install it with. the flat side of the
retainer facing up.
(36) Slide the axle through the hub while
holding the brake-arm expander firmly in place. The axle will go
partway, and then it must be rotated in a clockwise direction. As
the axle is being threaded into place, the sun gear will mesh
with the planetary gears and allow the dust cap to seat against
the shoulder of the sprocket. Rotate the axle until it is
finger-tight.
(37) Install the brake-arm-side dust cap and
then the brake arm, with the flats of the brake arm indexing with
the flats on the brake-arm side expander and with the
manufacturer's identification facing up.
CAUTION:
The brake arm of the Bendix Blue Band hub is not interchangeable
with the brake arm of the Bendix Yellow Band hub.
Thread the locknut onto the axle and tighten
it by holding the brake arm with one hand and tightening the
locknut with a wrench. Place the completed assembly in a vise,
with the jaws gripping the axle on the brake-arm end. Place a
cone locknut wrench over the axle, with the ears of the wrench
indexing with the notches in the locknut. Loosen the locknut
slightly, and then back off the adjusting cone approximately 1/3
turn, or until there is just a discernible amount of side play
when you move the wheel rim up and down. Hold the adjusting cone
with a wrench and tighten the locknut with a wrench on the
locknut tool.
(38) Remove the assembled hub and wheel from
the vise. Hold each end of the axle with your fingers. Slowly
twist the axle with the thumb and forefinger of each hand-the
wheel should not turn. If it does turn, the cones are too tight
and must be loosened slightly. Back off the locknut using the
locknut tool, loosen the adjusting cone approximately 1/8 turn,
and then retighten the locknut. The cones are properly adjusted
when the wheel rotates freely, comes to rest gradually with the
valve stem at the lowest point of the wheel, and there is only
the slightest trace of side play.
CAUTION:
If the cones are adjusted too tight, it will cause binding and
scoring of the hub. If the cones are adjusted too loose, it will
cause fatigue, which can result in, a damaged hub or broken axle.
INSTALLING
<>Engage the chain onto the sprocket, and then
slide the axle into the dropouts as indicated in the accompanying
illustration. Slide any accessory or fender supports onto the
axle in the same order as you noted when removing the wheel. If a
serrated washer is used place the washer on the axle with the
serrations toward the hub-against the frame. Thread the outside
axle nuts onto the axle finger-tight. Take up the slack in the chain by pulling the axle back
until the chain
is snug. Barely tighten the axle nut on the sprocket side, and
then align the wheel so it rotates midway between the rear frame
members by pulling the axle back on the, side opposite the
sprocket. Adjust the chain tension until it can be depressed
about 3/8 inch at a point midway between the hanger and rear
sprocket. Tighten both axle nuts firmly. Slip the brake lever
into the strap on the frame, and then secure it with the mounting
screw and nut. If the brake strap has several mounting holes bend
the strap around the frame so the brake lever will be as close to
the frame as possible.>
Turn the crank in the forward direction and
observe that the chain and wheel turn freely without binding or
rubbing on the frame. Reverse the crank direction and the wheel
should stop almost immediately.